Lagos: The city that never sleeps
When the pilot called on the cabin crew to prepare for landing, the announcement was met with mixed reactions by first time visitors to Nigeria, and Lagos in particular. … Lagos! As if they were taken by surprise. No need being surprised because they must feel the literal assault on the senses from the moment they step off the plane and feel the intensity of the dense tropical heat.
They have heard so much (good and bad) about this very busy town in Africa. The irony is that each visitor and even residents alike have unique description of their Lagos, better known as ‘Eko’ by the indigenes. But no matter how badly the town treats them, they keep flooding its corridors in search of its soul.
As one steps out of the aircraft, a temperature range of between 28’and 30’ degrees centigrade, ceaselessly caresses the body in a supposedly warm but genuine embrace. Yes, Lagos is hot but Russians and other nationals from the very temperate weathers are still here. That is still the interesting thing those who criticise the town still cannot leave to their palaces.
The energy, fun, the huge population and hustling all set the city apart. It is not just Lagos; it is your Lagos because the big, brash and bold Eko creaks under the weight of the 17 million people still welcomes more visitors on daily basis.
From the widows, you cannot help but watch locals get about in the traffic on motorcycle, popularly called ‘Okada’ on a daily routine. While most Europeans here will be surprised at that, those from Asia have similar experiences in their countries.
Truly, if Lagos was a person, he would be described as mad, bad and funny to know because the good, the bad and the ugly are well represented by all the nationals and activities that keep the city ever bubbling.
If you were advised in the past to prepare for the unexpected while in Lagos, please hold on because you can decide the expected. That is both risky and fun in a way, but that is Lagos for you.
The relocation of the Nigerian capital from the city to Abuja in the North some years back was just a scratch on its body, because Lagos still remains the economic and entertainment nerve centre of Nigeria.
The noise from the buzz of buying and selling almost everywhere in the city with people shouting on top of their voices is part of the uniqueness.
There seems to be only one volume level in Lagos, and that is loud. From the constant tooting of horns in the snail-paced traffic, known locally as ‘go slow,’ to music blaring from homes round-the-clock, the city buzzes constantly with noise. But Lagosians still enjoy it. They are the reason Nigeria is reputed globally as the ‘happiest people on earth.’
The commuter bus is something that is also very unique. Inside the yellow branded buses is like being in a cinema or theatre. You must have fun as driver, conductor and passengers abuse, joke and quarrel at intervals. The police are just our friends in Lagos; they are more civilian than the people they guard.
As one passenger puts it, “The difference is just the gun they carry; the beggars on the road are even more polite in asking for arms. Well, the force insists: Police is your friend.”
Heavy traffic is commonplace, but people still get around. On a normal day, you will be caught in the frequent ‘go slows,’ watch out for Okada, pedestrians, confronted by hawkers selling all manner of things, from shaving stick to candy.
The long hours wasted in traffic have turned the roads to grocery shops for road users, as they can virtually buy anything in the traffic. You may not be able to buy them on getting home because it might be too late and the local shops may be closed, so the traffic serves that purpose.
Despite the long hours wasted in traffic, most people especially corporate Lagosains, wake up as early as 4am to set out for the next day’s job. How then do they rest? Another big chunk of the population hangs around in bars till late, while some others go clubbing till morning.
As one elderly man once asked, “When will Lagos sleep? Well, that will probably be in the past because the Lagos of today is a 24-hour city. It is truly long Lagos bade farewell to sleep.”
